Installing Mainboard
A do-it-yourself tutorial explaining how to properly install a motherboard into a computer case. Includes a step-by-steo guide to the installation along with pictures. Standoff install tool. Anti-static wristband (optional). Motherboard manual (for pins and other references). Removing a motherboard. Extracting a motherboard already installed inside a PC case is fairly straightforward. (Make sure you have the case laid down on its side.) Here's how: Remove the rear screws on the case for the GPU. So you want to swap out motherboards on your Windows box and you're thinking.
Replacing a PC’s motherboard takes time and more than a little sweat, especially if you've never done it before. You could trip on any number of little hurdles during the motherboard removal and installation process. But don’t worry! We’ll help you get through the process as quickly and painlessly as possible. Let’s start with why you’d even want or need to replace your motherboard. (If you’re simply looking for instructions on how to install a motherboard in a new PC, scroll down a bit.) Sometimes components fail. Motherboards are no exception.
I’ve fried many a motherboard thanks to bad BIOS flashes and failing or flaky power supplies. Things happen, and sometimes those things can irreparably damage your motherboard. But replacing a motherboard is a lot of work. Before you start, you want to make very, very sure that your motherboard is broken. Step one is using one of these handy troubleshooting to make sure your motherboard is truly the culprit. Assuming your motherboard is confirmed dead, it’s time to consider a replacement. Thomas Ryan A fully assembled and complete motherboard sitting inside a PC.
What to look for in a new motherboard There are many motherboard manufacturers, but only two CPU vendors. The CPU is the core of your PC and so it follows that you need to select a motherboard that is compatible with your CPU, be it from Intel or AMD. Next, make sure the motherboard you chose is compatible with your current (or new) processor. Both companies have multiple different processor sockets for their chips. For example, if you have one of AMD’s recent APUs, you’ll want to buy a socket FM2+ motherboard. Conduct a Google search for your specific processor’s socket type, then look for motherboards built around that socket. Thomas Ryan Ensuring your motherboard's socket is compatible with your processor is key.
Now you've got a list of motherboards compatible with your CPU—and the board's size is the next consideration. This decision will be largely dictated by how big of a motherboard your computer case can accept. Most cases are designed for ATX form factor motherboards, but some can fit smaller mATX motherboards, and yet others can fit even smaller ITX motherboards. You need to limit your motherboard search to only the motherboards that can fit into your computer’s case.
The next step is to decide on a brand of motherboard. Nowadays, motherboards are more alike than they are different. You should not expect to see major differences in performance, power consumption, or overclocking between similarly priced motherboards from different vendors. They do however differ in color scheme, I/O capabilities, and expansion slot layouts. Thomas Ryan Picking the motherboard with the right color scheme for your PC is always going to be a subjective decision. We can’t help you there.
But you need to make sure that the motherboard you pick has an adequate number of USB, ethernet, and whatever other ports you expect to use. You also need to choose a motherboard with an expansion slot layout that can accommodate any graphics or other cards you may want to install. With all that out of way, the final issue to contend with is price. Decent, if spartan, motherboards start at about $80, but you will get meaningfully better motherboards for your money up until about the $250 price point. Motherboards with similar feature sets from different manufactures tend to price within $10 of each other. A great (if slightly risky) way to save money on a new motherboard is to buy the open-box (returned) version of that product. How to install a new motherboard in your PC Once you've selected a motherboard and have it in hand, it's time to install it.
But before we get into that, let's run through removing your old motherboard. Start by powering down and disconnecting any cords or cables attached to your PC, then open up the side of your computer’s case so that you can access the motherboard.
A smart trick is to take a picture here, so you have a record of everything that needs to be plugged in before you start disconnecting them. The big items like graphics cards and Wi-Fi cards can come out of your motherboard first. Then go for SATA or other interface cables that connect your SSD, hard drive, or optical media drive to your motherboard. Thomas Ryan SATA cables connected to a motherboard. Finally, it’s time to disconnect all of the power cabling plugged into your motherboard. On most motherboards there will be a smaller 8-pin CPU power connector near the top of the motherboard, and a much larger 24-pin ATX power connector near the middle of the left side of the motherboard. You need to unhook both of these connectors.
Thomas Ryan A motherboard's 8-pin power connector. It’s time to break out your favorite Phillips-head screwdriver and remove the screws holding the old motherboard to the mounting points in your PC’s case. Save the screws—you're going to need them again later. Your motherboard should now be freely floating in your case—pull it out.
With the old motherboard free, you’ll need to remove its CPU cooler, CPU, and RAM so you can install it into your new motherboard. Don’t force anything and accidentally break your pricey hardware. Thomas Ryan Removing the CPU cooler from the processor. Once that’s done, it’s time to get your new motherboard in your PC. You pretty much just have to replace everything you just pulled out of your old motherboard.
Here’s where that picture you took earlier can come in handy. Thomas Ryan Motherboard goes here. Install the CPU, CPU cooler, and RAM in your new motherboard, insert your motherboard's I/O shield in the rear of your case, then place the motherboard into your empty case. Thomas Ryan The motherboard's I/O shield. Put this in place on the rear of your case before you screw in your motherboard or you'll have to do it all over again. Be sure to use your motherboard’s standoff screws so it doesn’t directly touch the case wall.
If you forget to use your standoffs, you risk frying the motherboard when you power up your PC. (Some computer cases come with raised mounting points preinstalled.) Reuse the screws that held your old motherboard in place to secure your new motherboard. Follow this up by reconnecting the two power connectors (24-pin and 8-pin) that you removed earlier. Now plug the SATA cables back in and slot your expansion cards back into place.
Installing Main Bearing Bolts
Double-check that all of the internal cables in your PC are connected correctly and that everything is seated firmly in place. Reconnect all of the external cables that were connected to your PC before you took it apart, and power it on. Thomas Ryan A completed motherboard sitting inside a PC case.
This is the moment of truth. Your PC will probably reboot a couple of times as the motherboard adjusts to its new life. Then everything should be back to normal.
If you run into problems getting your computer to boot properly after you’ve replaced your motherboard, contact your motherboard manufacturer or ask for help on one of the many computer building forums around the web. With a new motherboard your PC should be as good as new—and hopefully a bit more stylish to boot.
Feature How to Install (Nearly) Everything Install a New Motherboard & CPU 1. Analyze your current PC Before you do anything else, make sure your case supports the form factor (ATX, MicroATX, and so on) of the new board you plan to purchase. You'll probably be upgrading your CPU at the same time, so make sure your new processor is compatible with your new motherboard. Many older motherboards require a 20-pin main power cable from your power supply, but recent boards require both a 24-pin connector and a separate four-pin one. Your motherboard won't work if improperly powered, so a new power supply could be in order.
Do your optical and hard drives connect via IDE (usually with ribbon cables) or via newer, thinner Serial ATA (SATA)? Many newer motherboards have only one IDE port (which supports two drives), whereas older boards have two. If you have more than two IDE drives, be sure your new board has a second IDE connector. Be mindful of Windows' licensing requirements—replacing a motherboard can necessitate reactivating Windows. Depending on whether you have a full-retail or OEM version, you may have to repurchase Windows. Remove components and cables from your old motherboard Speaking of Windows, you'll need to decide if you're going to install your new motherboard and keep your existing Windows installation in place, or take the opportunity to wipe your boot drive and start from scratch. If you do the second, have your Windows and application discs handy.
When you open your case's side, take photos of your PC's rear panel and interior, or label all the cables. (Sticky notes work well.) Many of today's connectors are color-coded, but if yours aren't, this precaution could prevent frustration later. Remove any cards in your old motherboard's expansion slots. Remove the screws securing them to the case, then pull the cards straight up and out.
(For a PCI Express x16 card, you might need to depress a lever on the slot before doing this.) Place them on a clean, static-free surface. Next, detach all cables and wires connecting your motherboard to the PSU, case front panel, optical and hard drives, or other components (such as fans). For the big PSU power-cable connectors that plug into the motherboard, squeeze a lever on one side to release the connector; most other cables should pull out easily. Swap the old motherboard for the new one Now for the switch. Locate the screws holding down the motherboard (usually six or nine), and remove them. Once done, the motherboard will lift out.
To protect it, place it in the antistatic bag your new board came in. Next, pop out the I/O panel—the metal rectangle with the port cutaways—attached to the case. Your new motherboard will come with its own, designed for the board's port arrangement. When inserting the new I/O panel, apply enough pressure around the edges to hear the clicks. It's more convenient to install the processor, its cooling fan, and the RAM before installing your new motherboard.
RAM is easy: Lower the levers on the RAM slots, line up the notch in the module with the slot's protrusion, then press the chip until both levers lock. Processors are more complicated. Intel's and AMD's designs vary, sometimes between their own lines, but today's processors and sockets are keyed so it's hard to orient a CPU incorrectly. That said, never force anything: If your processor resists when you engage its locking mechanism, you could damage it. Once it's in place, apply a layer of thermal paste to the CPU, and attach the fan to the board, covering the CPU.
Don't forget to plug in the fan's power cable to the board's 'CPU fan' header. If your new motherboard is the same size and shape as the old, you shouldn't need to adjust the standoffs that keep the motherboard from touching the case. If, however, you're upgrading from a smaller board to a larger one, you might.
Installing Motherboard Step By Step
Place the motherboard in the case, lining up its holes with the standoffs. Make sure there's a standoff for every hole, and vice versa.
After the standoffs are settled, gently place the motherboard, fitting its ports through the I/O panel. Once the holes are directly over the standoffs, secure it using the screws removed earlier. Attach old components to the new motherboard Reconnect all the components you disconnected in step 2. Slide each expansion card into its appropriate slot, and screw it down.
Cover any unused openings with a blank spacer. Most interior cables are keyed to connect only one way, so replacing them should be easy. If you're unsure where certain connectors live on the new board, consult your manual for a diagram. Take special care with USB and FireWire cables—mixing these up could cause system-crippling problems.
The front-panel connectors can trip up even the experts. For your power/reset switches and activity lights to work, you need to match up the connectors with the proper pins and orient them correctly. Your motherboard manual will explain the proper layout, but a little trial and error may be required. Finishing up Close the case, re-attach the rear-panel cables, and turn on the computer. It should boot, and you'll see your new motherboard's splash screen. Follow the instructions to enter the BIOS. There, check the drive and RAM configuration to make sure everything's recognized, set the boot-device priority, and enable USB 2.0 or PCI Express support, if your board requires it.
Save any changes. Then, assuming you aren't reinstalling Windows, boot for the first time. Windows will need to install drivers for the motherboard, most of which it can and will do automatically, though you might need the CD that came with your board. If you've gone the Windows-reinstall route, put your Windows CD into the optical drive, direct the BIOS to boot from it, and follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. Read More Install a New Motherboard & CPU.