Fanned Fretboard Template
A durable aluminum notched-edge Fret Template with precision less than three cents (three hundredths of a semitone) at any scale length. Used the template yesterday.
I tooled up to do fanned fret necks this spring. Not for my own bass product lines, but for the necks that I build for other Luthiers. One of my main clients has introduced several fanned fret guitar models, 6, 7 and 8-string versions. So, I had to work through the geometry and figure out a reliable method of cutting the slots. I modified my fret slotting saw so that the vise which holds the sliding neck-holding fixture now swivels and can be set to precise angles. For the layouts and math I used an Excel spreadsheet that I've been using for years to generate the fret spacing tables of numbers. I used those to make up rulers in AutoCad, and then used those to layout the fret locations and angles on the neck.
From that, I established a median scale length, which is the scale length down the centerline of the neck. That gave me a precise location of the center of each fret. Combined with the angle of each fret, that became the data that I used to establish the slots. There are other ways to get there, I'm sure, but I found that method to be the easiest to keep straight. You know what I mean. We've built six of his fan fret guitars so far, and the geometry and intonation seems to be fine. There are a lot of other little details to watch out for, too.
The geometry of the headstock around the angled nut, the angling of the pickups, location of the bridges (usually individual bridges). I tooled up to do fanned fret necks this spring. Not for my own bass product lines, but for the necks that I build for other Luthiers. One of my main clients has introduced several fanned fret guitar models, 6, 7 and 8-string versions. So, I had to work through the geometry and figure out a reliable method of cutting the slots.
I modified my fret slotting saw so that the vise which holds the sliding neck-holding fixture now swivels and can be set to precise angles. For the layouts and math I used an Excel spreadsheet that I've been using for years to generate the fret spacing tables of numbers. I used those to make up rulers in AutoCad, and then used those to layout the fret locations and angles on the neck. From that, I established a median scale length, which is the scale length down the centerline of the neck. That gave me a precise location of the center of each fret. Combined with the angle of each fret, that became the data that I used to establish the slots.
There are other ways to get there, I'm sure, but I found that method to be the easiest to keep straight. You know what I mean. We've built six of his fan fret guitars so far, and the geometry and intonation seems to be fine.
There are a lot of other little details to watch out for, too. The geometry of the headstock around the angled nut, the angling of the pickups, location of the bridges (usually individual bridges). Click to expand.That's quite the contraption. You make it look easy. Correct me if I'm wrong, but best of my understanding you need to know the neck dimensions as far as string spacing, taper ect. Being that the frets aren't straight like normal if you cut slots for a board at 19mm spacing and build your neck for a 17mm the location of the strings to fret will be off.
Or to make it easier to understand you can't just run two scales together and draw a line between them from edge to edge of the board. It needs to be from edge to edge of the outer string.
I could just be over thinking it. I tooled up to do fanned fret necks this spring. Not for my own bass product lines, but for the necks that I build for other Luthiers. One of my main clients has introduced several fanned fret guitar models, 6, 7 and 8-string versions.
So, I had to work through the geometry and figure out a reliable method of cutting the slots. I modified my fret slotting saw so that the vise which holds the sliding neck-holding fixture now swivels and can be set to precise angles.
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For the layouts and math I used an Excel spreadsheet that I've been using for years to generate the fret spacing tables of numbers. I used those to make up rulers in AutoCad, and then used those to layout the fret locations and angles on the neck. From that, I established a median scale length, which is the scale length down the centerline of the neck. That gave me a precise location of the center of each fret.
Guitar Fretboard Templates
Combined with the angle of each fret, that became the data that I used to establish the slots. There are other ways to get there, I'm sure, but I found that method to be the easiest to keep straight. You know what I mean. We've built six of his fan fret guitars so far, and the geometry and intonation seems to be fine. There are a lot of other little details to watch out for, too. The geometry of the headstock around the angled nut, the angling of the pickups, location of the bridges (usually individual bridges). That's quite the contraption.
You make it look easy. Correct me if I'm wrong, but best of my understanding you need to know the neck dimensions as far as string spacing, taper ect. Being that the frets aren't straight like normal if you cut slots for a board at 19mm spacing and build your neck for a 17mm the location of the strings to fret will be off. Or to make it easier to understand you can't just run two scales together and draw a line between them from edge to edge of the board. It needs to be from edge to edge of the outer string.
I could just be over thinking it.